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@@tohphu7081 Yeah, i found this problem too from another user. The solution was simple, revert back. But Samsung didn't open that solution just for Z Fold 4 & just mind their new product, foget about old customers. Damn Samsung!

@@bimoharda5270 So sorry to hear that. This is really awful because don't really do anything

@@muhammadibnukholidsatriani9763 contact al.satyr@gmail.com

Kali gak salah kisaran 5jta waktu itu

Sekitar ~4000k

@@AlSatyr wahhh berani la....hehe

Just kicked out all stock electronics but retraction motor+control board and some stock wires on tube arms, then fused APM 2.6 and brushless propulsion system on stock frame

You can contact me privately on al.satyr@gmail.com

Maaf, tidak untuk dijual

@@AlSatyr kllo untuk lama terbangnya apa bisa di tingkatkan

@@drnlaskarwongkito6254 Bisa, tapi mesti pindah ke power system 4s baru bsa mengkompensasi penambahan kapasitas battery hingga 5000 mAh & FT nambah

@@AlSatyr itu kameranya apa bisa pake kamera punya dji spark mas

@@drnlaskarwongkito6254 Jawaban singkatnya tidak bisa. Camera Dji Spark yg terintegrasi dgn gimbal 2 axis tdk memiliki image processing seperti camera action kebanyakan karena prosesnya dilakukan di CPU Spark. Artinya kalau mau dipakai di luar Spark, anda harus memasang komponen image processing & camera control tambahan, tidak swperti action cam kebanyakan. Jadi kalau anda mau meluangkan waktu & anggaran utk reverse engineering sistem kamera Spark, jawabannya bisa menjadi: Ya, bisa dipakai di armada ini

I don't think so. The spec only said 3.7-7.4V and by using 75mm props @ 2S, the heat generated on rotor made me nervous

aeQuator Yeah, mine too. It's your choice to get a better flight performance by sacrificing motor's lifetime. Usually after drained 1 lipo, I rest it for a 5 minute and flew again to maintain the heat

Ya i tried it with the same technic but mine burned out prty fast(racerstar black edition) i now use 55mm props and they won't get even warm. After 4x 400mah it will start riseing but feels never hotter than like 30c.

aeQuator Damn right. These motors only good for 3 first flight. After that, the performance dropped until they die. I think this aircraft fit only for slow cruising style

Dân Dipper Thank you

al satyr but can that q333 range 1km^^And what kind/name of your tranmister .How long can it fly Please.

I used Flysky i6s and i believe this transmitter worked effective less than 500 m, but I once found someone use i6 and flew his multirotor reach out 1 km. This mod flew for about 7 minutes with 3S 3000 mAh

al satyr i thanks. I hope to see more rc video of your chanel. I very love your inspire 1 clone,so i want to build like you. But i don't know how to make it. Can you help me^^

derjoh1986 What exactly did you meant by being free of control while stay on these mod? Because I already showed how transmitter switch controlled the retractable arm & use that for flying in Poshold, Circle and RTH, which is automatically worked without much manual control from user

Show the transmitter on camera of you not doing anything to assist the controls (Joy sticks ) while the quad was in GPS hover mode and while the RTH mode was activated. My point? Remove (or minimize ) all doubts about your mods actually working the way you claim in a video.. This vid leaves a little room for disbelief. However, I do applaud your engineering efforts. This project seemed like it took a lot of work and patience for you to achieve this. Nice skill. Good job nonetheless.

derjoh1986 Oh silly me, you meant that scene when I must show how I did transmitter's stick movements while it take off, flew and landing right? The truth behind that was I kinda difficult to take this flying video footage because i did it alone, only with my smartphone (recording device) on my right hand and transmitter on my left hand. Another factor was that windy situation that forced me to take off while using two of my hand for balancing quad's movement that reacted to strong wind. Since I couldn't hold my recording device with mouth while did proper take off action, I continued recording while it had reached at stable altitude so I regained my right hand to record this flying and my left hand for changing auto flight control. There always room for disbelievers, even for the simple fact such as round of the Earth. It's how humanity's logic worked and I didn't want pushing people to believe what I did. It's your choice. All that I wanted to share was how I imagined a better hardware for this multicopter, modded that until it can fly normally. I pretty satisfied by showed how it flew on a flight session to my friends on local multicopter community. All of them believed my works and continue spreading this work to another communities so many from people there started trying the same project. It's nuff for me :)

Fair enough. Again, good job nonetheless.

BEHIND THE SCENES with al satyr

MY CHANEL Tutorial rinci gak ada gan. Tapi konsep rangkaian kwad berbasis APM banyak tutorialnya, bisa mengadaptasikan itu dgn bbrpa trik supaya sesuai dgn frame ini

odis mesa Thank you

David Ellis I don't think so. This product's line productions were fall behind mid 2016, there were no updates at all and wl focussing with another products

Needs some 300 bucks and patience

craig still Thank you Craig

Actme If you referred to Kingkong 65mm, its hole's diameter was 1 mm too so it fitted to stock shaft. No need to mod

Milan Thanks Milan. Unfortunately I got no video documentation while did this mod but I surely help anyone who want to do this by tips & trick how did that

I'm sorry I can't do that since I don't have this aircraft anymore. I still can assist you and it's better if you get some experiences in multirotor build-from-zero so our conversation would be more effective

AviorTV cost for hardwares are around USD 360. IMHO, it's least worthed for flight stability. But if you looking around for fun, it's worthed enough

al satyr just for the motors? Holy crap :O

AviorTV LoL, you're funny. This mod didn't just install these brushless motors and voila. You seemed didn't read the desc, I wrote all necessary hardwares on there so this "frame" would fly with brushless motors, have many flight feature with decent Flight Controller, use decent Radio System and good quality 2 axis gimbal.

al satyr I know, it's beautiful. I love this quad but the fact that it comes with brushed motors stops me from buying it. I'm not gonna rebuild a quadcopter out of the Q333's frame, I just want to convert it to brushless. That's why I asked how much did it cost just to get it in the air with brushless motors. Thanks

You know, brushed motors use continue electricity, brushless motors use alternate electricity and thus they're not compatible out of the box, or, this is what they told me.

sergio gonzalez lopez Nothing different from standard procedures; calibrating gyro, compass, radio and ESCs. You better finish them up completely. The easy thing, you just need follow the wizard.

sergio gonzalez lopez Did you reffered "can' t rise" as can not hovering?

al satyr it is right. Do not do any of the two things you mention.

sergio gonzalez lopez Maybe your problem was on the propulsion system. Better check each side motor's throttle response to find if there is one motor that can not produce same thrust as the others. This method same as the method to find motor problem on brushed quad. I believe you use Control Mode 2, then you just moved right stick (roll & pitch) to the North East and give some throttle to the mid point. Your quad would be significantly raised by Motor 2 if there is no problem. But if your can't be raised by Motor 2 side then your problem is Motor 2. You must complete this step to another three side to find thrust condition of Motor 1, Motor 3 & Motor 4. If tou find which side that got problem, better cross-change that part to another side's ESC such moved ESC 1 to Motor 2, etc. If the indicated motor still produce the same result on that side, you better change that motor. But if problem changed to another side of motor, you better change that ESC.

I think you should stick for lesser blades since it had high RPM so then get low torque. This characteristic need a lower load on props. My recent micro 85mm used 7500 kv on 5 blades 2035, fly steady. But when I changed to 4 blades 2435 trimmed to 2035, this kiddo fly more violent than 5 blades

Cool will do, thank you for the insight!

You're welcome

Armando vargas Maaf, karya ini tidak dijual. Hanya sebuah proyek kecil untuk membantu teman

Andrew Keir If you use PWM, just connect gimbal pitch control to channel 6 or up then you assign any switch to control channel 6 or up for gimbal control. But if you use PPM mode, you must extract channel 6 for gimbal's control from analog output of APM. You need to assign this control mode on Mission Planner, on gimbal section.

I for the life of me can't get mine to work like this

Could you do a set up video?

Secara pribadi saya gak suka dgn frame ini. Fragile & tidak rigid. Ini cuma mod memanfaatkan barang yg sdh ada. Kalau agan punya budget khusus, bisa pertimbangkan utk printing 3D parts Inspire. Daripada pakai aluminium tube, knp gak carbon tube aja? Bobot lebih berat aluminium & sifatnya yg mudah penyok perlu pertimbangan. Btw, saya tetap pakai stock boom karena susunan kabel di dalam nya sudah sangat crowded. Bisa dibayangkan kesulitan memasang tube baru dgn ukuran yg sama & harus menarik kabel kecil satu per satu tanpa alat khusus. Too much efforts for simple project.

Ohhh gitu yaa tapi saya suka sama punya kamu,, sayang nya saya sudah beli f450, 😂😂 tapi 3d printing mahal kan mas?? Saya itu egois yah Punya budget pas-pas'an tapi mau yang lebih haha,, 😄😄 Terimakasih banyak ya mas sudah dikasi tau 😊

Emm btw mas ga mau pakai carbon tube?? Kayaknya kalo di maksimalkan bakal sangat sangat sangaaaaattttt kerennn 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍

Dari sekian banyak aku liat q333 punya mas ini aja yang kurasa sangat rapi 😍😍😍

Zhari Azhari Terima kasih supportnya gan. Mod gak menggunakan carbon tube masih menggunakan alasan yang sama aluminium tube; terlalu rumit mengatur ulang kabel kecil di dalam & menambah biaya+waktu, terlebih lagi carbon tube mesti dilubangi lagi. Kalo dihitung hitung effort yg dikeluarkan gak seimbang dgn hasil yg diterima gan krn pada akhirnya titik lemah frame tetap pada bodi utamanya yg dari plastik. Kalah seimbang dgn carbon tube nya.

Jim Lane Thanks dude. Actually I use stock wiring inside the tube because it will take time & effort more of you want replacing stocl wiring on that small tubes. The wires was consisted of two pairs with different gauge. I use bigger gauge for ESC's power line & little gauge for signal+ground wire ESC to FC. I placed ESCs at the bottom of each motors. Motor installed on stock plastic piece which had enough hole for bolt instalation. If you wanted to use stock board, I believe it would be done by simply removed mosfets and connect its remained contact to ESC signals & ground. It was simple hack standard out there for converting brushed FC to brushless. But you won't get increased satisfaction about flight mode since it still Q333 board which don't have GPS assistance and more flight features

Thanks buddy

Jim Lane You're welcome

hate the music

sergio gonzalez lopez I'd like to help you but started with what component?

al satyr I have the following materials. An apm, motors, ESC with BEC, in this case I am not using a power module. But I would like to know how the motor that supports the movement of the q333 arms is connected. The one on the inside of the dron. And I'm using the same station that you present in your video. I would greatly appreciate it.

sergio gonzalez lopez Instead using BEC from ESC, you better use Power Module or real BEC for assuring your APM will get a better power supply. The maguc of my build was using stock wiring inside the tube for ESC connection (power & PWM signal) so it's gonna clean build. For Retract mechanism, I extracted stock control board which connected to brushed motor for retraction. That control board using 3 wires (GND, Vcc, Signal) and I connect them on analog pin 10 on APM, which I reprogrammed as Gimbal Pitch control on Mission Planner

al satyr Else your LEDs where they are connected. Because mine do not light .... some video of how you program the command in the mission planner that you have as a guide.

sergio gonzalez lopez I don't use led because led's cable were used for ESC. I didn't make video of how to do that but I remembered had attached a screenshot how to set that somewhere on these comment. The idea was simple, just opening analog pin 10 (RC10) to be associated with channel 6th for gimbal pitch. Find them on gimbal section on Mission Planner's configuration tab

bg563195 Just set the sixth channel as gimbal pitch control. On the i6s, set the 6th channel on which dial you wanted to use as gimbal pitch control (i use VR A). Then, since I use PPM receiver so I set analog output #10 as gimbal pitch control on Mission Planner. Then I just connect gimbal's pitch wires on APM's analog output #10. That's it. If you use PWM receiver, it will be more simple. You just connect gimbal's pitch wire on channel 6 pin on your PWM receiver.

sweet what Battery and flight time do you get?

bg563195 using 3S 3000 mAh 25C, get 5-7 minutes

I'm still having problems doing this. I don't suppose you could do a quick video showing how to do it please...

bg563195 Now I don't have this unit anymore so I can't make any video. Do you referring gimbal control installation's problem? Just tell me how you did that so we can find the problem

Ying Bxua I kinda disappointed with the result. The thrust test is weaker than expected. And by experience using these motor, the 1 mm shaft is have tendency for breaking when crashed and I already broke one of it, while other loosen from the rotor. DYS 1104 7500kv would be a superior choice. I have another 1104 motors that resembled with DYS 1104 7500kv; HGLRC Flame 1104 7500kv. The thrust result was better. By using 1935 props, it gets max thrust on 120 gr/motor. While using 2035 props get 130 gr/motor. So I use these motor on my 85 mm. I have no idea with RCX 1103.

Thanks for sharing ! Which ESC & Battery you use for 85 build with 1104 ? I have also purchased 1-2S 6A ESC and not sure if it can handle 1104 motor.....

Ying Bxua Actually ESC 6A would be underspec for DYS 1104 7500kv. You can check motor's datasheet and it showed that it need more than 10A for 100% load so I chose Racerstar 4in1 12A ESC. For power, I use lipo 2S Giant Power 850 mAh 50C (XT30 plug). These config had AUW around 100 gr. By using Racerstar 2035, I still get whoopy sensastion when flying. And it get more whoopy when using lipo 2S 500 mAh.

I was actually looking at the DYS 1104 5400KV - as per datasheet they provide max 3.5A on 3020 Prop on 2S, so theoretically I should be within 6A with 2035(4 blades). So what would be your advise for 85mm 2S build for the motors ?

Ying Bxua It depends on your frame size. If you wanted use 3 inch props config, you better be using 95 mm frames or up. You wouldn't have enough props clearance if using 3 inch props on 85 mm for it's max allowance props size is 2 inch. Build a 85 mm with 2S, better use 7500 kv motor or up.

Hue Gaming Personally I wouldn't recommend this build anymore because it was frail frame

Thank you. The truth is that music considered as "not too powerful track" on my collection; neutral. So I chose that :-)

Ini hanya mod utk menolong teman. Jika sudah punya Q333, perkiraan damage cost sekitar RM 1.300

al satyr aku newb lagi ni, barang boleh dapat dari mana? senang cerita PM tepi mas lagi mudah..boleh?

Cuba cek local hobby shop, kemungkinan menjual beberapa perangkat yang dibutuhkan termasuk WL Q333. Selain itu, banggood atau aliexpress sudah cukup lengkap, hanya perlu sabar menunggu shiping process yang lebih lama. Silakan PM jika kebingungan

al satyr boleh mas beri detail apa barang yg boleh sy beli

Azhari Bahari Azhari silakan cek di deskripsi video ini. Semua terlampir lengkap dengan link